Monday, May 27, 2024

5 spring Style milestones to remember – from daring collabs to designer yoga gear

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Chitose Abe is one of the most prolific collaborators in the fashion world. Through the years, the founder and creative director of Sacai has partnered with an impressive roll-call of brands, from Mercedes-AMG and Nike, to French couturier Jean Paul Gaultier.

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It came as no surprise then, when Abe unveiled Sacai’s collab with American workwear company Carhartt Wip. Recently the two dropped their second capsule collection, which fuses the hip Japanese label’s suiting fabrics with Carhartt Wip’s signature duck textile. For those not in the know, duck canvas is a weighty but durable plain-woven cotton fabric that usually appears on the inside of garments.

2. Pucci Marmo yoga range

Pucci yoga

Pucci’s artistic director Camille Miceli is a devoted yogi. “When I started practising yoga, it really changed my life,” says the French designer. “It anchors me in the present and brings a kind of balance that I carry through my days.”

She is now bringing that passion to Pucci with a yoga range, which features one of Pucci’s signature prints: Marmo, inspired by the blue grotto on the Italian island of Capri. Pieces such as leggings, sports bras and crop tops come in the beloved wavy blue pattern and are equipped with practical logo bands. The line also features a yoga mat and a water bottle with a protective sleeve emblazoned with a fish logo designed by Miceli.

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3. Erdem x Barbour trapeze coat

Erdem x Barbour

Deborah, the late dowager Duchess of Devonshire, was the inspiration behind Erdem’s spring/summer 2024 collection. The show opened with a trapeze coat, the result of a collaboration between Erdem and Barbour, the British label known for its sturdy outerwear beloved by the late Queen Elizabeth. The couture-like statement piece combines Barbour’s signature waxed cotton with a quilted liner, made with curtain remnant material, inspired by archival textiles that were once at Chatsworth House, the residence of the late duchess.

4. Schiaparelli pencil accessory

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You would never guess but the most unexpected (and exciting) accessory from the haute couture spring/summer 2024 season was, simply, a pencil. Schiaparelli’s creative director, Daniel Roseberry, chose to insert a piece of stationery – taken from the brand’s Paris studio – into a white button-up. The result was one of the most understated looks on the runway, the ensemble consisting of a plain shirt with exaggerated sleeves and that sharpened pencil laced through the collar.

5. “Fashion on the Move” exhibition in Paris

From the “Fashion on the Move” exhibition, now on at the Palais Galliera in Paris

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Parisian fashion museum Palais Galliera is paying homage to the 2024 Olympic Games taking place in Paris this summer with “Fashion on the Move”. The exhibition, which is on display until September 2025, looks at how the field has evolved over the decades to incorporate elements of sportswear. From Japanese designer Yohji Yamamoto’s pioneering collaboration with Adidas for the line Y-3, to Chanel surfboards, the show explores the many connections between fashion houses and performance wear.

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